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Fluid Film works great. I use it twice a year and make sure to spray inside all the body cavities for extra protection.
I’d go with Por-15. Start with an acid wash and then finish it off with their topcoat for solid protection.
- Power wash the whole underside.
- Remove the truck bed if it’s a pickup.
- Use a wire brush on a grinder to clean off as much rust and scale as possible.
- Cover everything with a ton of Fluid Film. Get it into the frame rails, belly pan, and everywhere else. The undercarriage should feel greasy when you’re done.
- Repeat this every six months. It takes effort, but it’ll keep your vehicle in good shape.
The cheapest method is using rubberized undercoating spray. If you’re motivated, clean off the rust first, then spray generously. It’s not perfect, but it’s affordable and helps slow down the rust.
Kirby said:
The cheapest method is using rubberized undercoating spray. If you’re motivated, clean off the rust first, then spray generously. It’s not perfect, but it’s affordable and helps slow down the rust.
What about doing a Rhino liner underneath?
@Noe
Rhino lining is a better process but costs a lot more. If you’re on a budget, 3M makes a good rubberized undercoating spray you can get for around $10 a can. With $50, you can cover a lot of ground. Still, it’s worth asking a Rhino liner shop about their prices—they might surprise you.
@Kirby
What’s your opinion on DIY options like Raptor liner?
Noe said:
@Kirby
What’s your opinion on DIY options like Raptor liner?
Raptor liner is a good step up from spray cans. If you’ve got an air compressor and some space to work, the whole kit is about $120. It’s messy but definitely gives better long-term results than the cheaper sprays.
@Noe
Does anyone here know if Rhino liner lasts long? I’ve considered it but don’t want to waste money.
Take it to a shop that does oil-based undercoating. A good place will clean the rust and prep the surface before applying the coat.
Fluid Film, every year without fail.
- Use a needle scaler or wire wheel to knock off as much rust as you can.
- Weld any rusted-through holes you find.
- Treat everything with phosphoric acid to stop the rust. Home Depot sells it as ‘Concrete Etch’ or ‘Metal Prep.’
- Do an oil undercoating every year. Fluid Film, NHOU, or WoolWax are all good options.
- Power wash everything thoroughly.
- Spray an oil-based undercoat. Rust converter jelly works too but is messy, so choose your location carefully.
- Avoid regular spray paint—it won’t last. Use products that are designed to bond with rust and protect the metal.
@Tariq
Agree. I used Rust-Oleum on my truck, but it only lasted a couple of years even with sanding the frame beforehand.
@Tariq
I’ve been using used motor oil as a cheap alternative. It works pretty well, and it’s free!
I used to work for a company that offered Dinitrol treatments. It takes about 3-4 days and costs roughly £1000, but the results last 5-6 years, sometimes even longer.
Wire brush everything, then power wash, dry, and apply an oil-based undercoating. Reapply every year before winter hits.
Mastercoat seems like a solid choice according to what I’ve read. Anyone else tried it?