How much should I expect to pay for installing an electric tongue jack?

I’m getting a used Jayco 264BH soon, and I’m considering upgrading to an electric tongue jack. I’ve found a few reasonably priced options online, but I’m not sure about labor costs. A salesman threw out a price that seemed pretty high. I’m tempted to try installing it myself since I’ve seen a few tutorials, but it’d be nice to pick up the trailer with everything ready to go.

Anyone know a fair price for labor to install an electric tongue jack? Appreciate any advice.

Is it the standard 3-bolt style? You can get a good Lippert one for under $150 online. Just hook up your trailer to the truck to take the weight off, pull out 3 bolts, put the new one in, and connect a wire to the battery. I swapped mine in about 20 minutes, and I’m not even a mechanic.

Just 3 bolts and one wire to the battery. Pretty simple.

@Luca
I’m in IT too, and I found it super easy to replace myself. No need to pay for an install unless you really don’t want to do it.

Aki said:
@Luca
I’m in IT too, and I found it super easy to replace myself. No need to pay for an install unless you really don’t want to do it.

Same here, also in IT. I did it myself with jack stands for support, swapped the old jack, and was done in 20 minutes. Definitely worth doing yourself if you’re comfortable.

Honestly, if I can do it that quick, a shop shouldn’t charge more than $50-$80 for labor. You’re probably looking at around $200-$220 all in with the new jack included.

@Luca
After I installed my bike rack that used the same mounting holes, I realized this is actually super easy. Just go for it yourself.

Not directly about the jack, but we got a 264BH recently. Here are a few things to check before you take it home:

  1. Make sure the siding meets the roof membrane properly. Ours was cut too high, so water pools up top.
  2. Check under the membrane for any debris. We had stuff under ours, even a staple poking through.
  3. Look at the propane lines. Ours ran through the front stabilizer jack, so we couldn’t fully raise it without pinching the line.

Hope this helps someone avoid the same issues.

@Thorn
Yeah, sounds pretty typical for Jayco since Thor bought them. Thanks for the heads up.

I’d recommend the Husky Super Brute HSB4000.

Spend the money you’d pay on labor and get a better jack. Same easy install: 3 bolts and a wire to the battery with a circuit breaker inline.

This one is stronger, faster, and has a better reach. I upgraded from my OEM Lippert to the Husky and loved it. Plus, you can always take it with you if you get a new trailer.

And definitely go for grade 8 bolts, heavy flat washers, and grade 8 lock washers. You can find them at a hardware store.

Jo said:
@Kit
Yeah, our Lippert isn’t great either. I’ve only had it a year and I’m already thinking about upgrading.

Why are you considering an upgrade?

@Jo
Got it. Are you leaning towards the Husky too?

@Kit
Ever thought about going hydraulic?

If you check out a couple of videos online, you’ll see it’s pretty simple to install. Should be doable on your own with some elbow grease.

Pro tip: If you need anything done on the trailer itself, go to a commercial or utility trailer shop. They’re usually cheaper than RV centers and specialize in the mechanical side of things.

I usually negotiate to have things like this included when I make a purchase. Try saying, ‘Throw in a jack and the labor, and we have a deal.’ I’ve scored dual batteries on each camper this way.

If it’s too late, you can buy one online and put it in yourself. It’s not hard to do at all.

@Keller
Just recently replaced mine with this model:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Jack/Ultra~Fab_Products/UF38-944040.html

It’s got memory settings and a full retract mode. Happy with it so far.

Labor should be around an hour. If they’re charging more, it might be worth double-checking their rates.

And yeah, if you’re not comfortable with three bolts and one wire, RVing might be challenging.

Easy job, but definitely go for high-quality hardware. Grade 8 bolts, flat washers, and lock washers are worth it.

Sure, the included hardware works, but if you want it done right, it’s best to use the good stuff. I’ve never had issues with quality hardware.

And honestly, if you’re getting into RVing, it’s handy to be good with this kind of stuff. Makes life easier.

Cranking by hand isn’t as bad as people make it sound.